Two Tales From Two Top Ends

When away I always like to compare other holiday destinations with Alaska and was struck recently while in Australia’s Top End how the Crocodile Dundee lifestyle was similar to Alaska’s. It all boiled down to a mixed bag of Aussie characters who, in a heartbeat would fit right into Alaska’s backwoods society. During a boat trip on the Adelaide River, in the first 40 minutes a propeller was attacked by Michael Jackson and the helmswoman was getting driving lessons. If it doesn’t make any sense so far - read on sport! Top image (Lumix LX1 camera/ wide angle setting - shaky hand).

As lovers of independent travel know, it’s the journey that’s as much fun as the final objective. Take wildlife viewing – whether it’s grizzly bears or crocodiles - just reaching the species is an extraordinary experience through regions far from everyday routes. Always expecting the unexpected, for me it’s the craggy and colourful characters (we haven’t reached the crocodiles yet) one bumps into along the trail. Here are Two Tales - from Two Top Ends.

Crocodile pictures on an Alaska blog? Seemed impossible to me too – that was until I met Lefty, Stumpy, Elgar, Mean Bastard and Michael Jackson (light face/dark body) who all live in the muddy Adelaide River (East of Darwin, en route to Kakadu National Park) and all have names that fit! Lefty and Stumpy were fighters, losing limbs in long forgotten turf wars. Mean Bastard was just plain mean. But Michael Jackson with a penchant for propellers was the odd one out. Not attracted by tasty chunks of lamb – it was the feel of a solid Evinrude outboard propeller between his teeth that made Michael’s mouth water. Our small group of nature enthusiasts were crewed by two female characters, both out of a Thelma and Louise movie script. Two eyeballs at waterline and heading rapidly in our direction told us Michael Jackson definitely had a propeller in mind. The skipper, a real outback character whose language alone would repel the average mild mannered croc – today had the dual role of training the (first day on the job?) helmswoman while keeping us punters informed of everything that lurked beneath the hull. As croc’s closed in on all sides, she sounded like everyone’s first driving instructor “Left hand down a bit” - “Ease up on the motor” - “Try reverse”. Her final shout had our full attention. “Stop the bloody engine, Michael’s right behind you!!!”. And yup with an ominous clunk of teeth and steel the engine stalled. Gotcha! Final score Michael 1: Tourist boat 0. All of us on board would swear MJ swam a circuit of honour with a big grin and a chunk of prop to chew later in the ooze of the river bank.

With an honest display of writer’s bias I would say the Grizzly bears of our Top End are more a refined lot. A class act compared to their mates in the mud downunder, and what self-respecting bear would eat a car wheel? They come with nicer names too, like ‘Blondie’ and my favourite, ‘Diver’. Diver is a star, a clever bear that figured out how to beat the system at Brooks Falls! Like fixing the slots in Las Vegas, ensuring everyday is payday! Brooks Falls is all about salmon – and that’s why it is one of the most successful places to view bears in Alaska. During summer at key times brown bears descend from their mountain grazing grounds to feast on migrating fish and where better than at a waterfall. Driven by nature’s urge to reach distant spawning grounds – the salmon must jump. Once airborne they face a dilemma – a wall of brown bears atop the falls, mouths open, legs deep in the current, waiting for catch of the day! Sounds like a piece of cake? It is, once you officially join the hierarchy of the bear’s upper deck club. Like life in big business - to reach this status you have fought and clawed your way to the top. Reward is a stand up meal at Alaska’s finest all-you-can-eat fish restaurant.

As a young bear, Diver hadn’t got a hope of promotion, he was round and cuddly and just plain nice. He likely wasn’t a fighter, more of a scuba diver. And that’s how Diver changed the odds. Holding his breath and swimming beneath the falls – the canny young bear caught the fish before they even thought of jumping. The brigade on top was aghast! Furious and utterly helpless they stood motionless as a fat little junior scooped the big ones! Best memories? Facial expressions of the old boys on top while an upstart hit them where it hurt most, in the tummy!

As a visitor to Brooks Falls (http://www.alaskatours.com/wildlife/bear_viewing/katmai_brooks_falls.htm) you can view bears up close from special stands beside the river. Reached on foot, a short walk from Brooks Lodge, it is a chance to watch a collection of lovable characters having lunch! Being within a National Park it is safe and rangers with radios keep an eye on all the species. Your own tales from the wildlife trail start here.

Happy Trails & Take Care of All Wildlife
David

Alaska Railroad 1929 Presidential Car Back On Track. Now Available For Private Charters

Built in 1929 the Presidential Railroad Car first saw service with the Northern Pacific Railroad. Followed by a series of owners, the car operated throughout the American railroad system before finally being shipped to Alaska.

Word is the car never actually carried ‘The President’ but instead transported Senators, State Governors, eager to be seen politicians, and not surprisingly a few Railroad Presidents. If it was anything like those old Black & White movies we’ve all watched, this elite crowd puffed on Cuban cigars and talked big! With imagination you can conjure the era, long gone political voices speaking of vague promises, winning wars and dusty intrigues. As the car rattled across Mid-Western states - the aroma of spilled bourbon and old cigar smoke blended with elegant dinner parties and well dressed people waving to crowds.

Hang on a moment, why all this nostalgia? It’s back and on track! Time to start practicing your own wave! Now the 1929 Presidential car is home after a ($1.5 million) refit in Colorado to meet current safety standards. Looking fabulous, the car is available once more to ride the rails on a private charter basis! Just imagine riding the Alaska Railroad in your own Presidential car. Attached to the rear of the train, you too can wave from the observation platform – just like they did in the old days. Your adoring fans will be impressed as you journey through Alaska’s great interior. You see - it’s been a long while since the moose, grizzly bears, wolves and little critters saw anything quite like this!

Equipped with a full kitchen, the chef and waiting staff will ensure those elegant, champagne, dinner parties are not a thing of the past. The car has one bedroom (double bed) with beautiful, en suite facilities. While parked at night, your friends will be housed in comfortable hotel accommodation nearby. Talking of friends, a total of 12 is a sensible maximum for travelling. The dining table seats 16, so new pals can always drop by for a bite to eat.

All the logistical stuff can be arranged online (www.alaskatours.com) Things like buying food and wine, bringing the chef onboard and organizing best places to park (find car parking tricky? Try trains). Wildlife and sightseeing excursions are added wherever you are and my personal favourite - having a bush plane swoop down, land on a nearby lake and whisk you off for an ‘eagle’s eye’ view of mountain tops.

For the most unique experience, if you avoid peak season dates when the railroad is super busy – it’s possible to have a private locomotive haul your ‘Presidential car’ through Alaska. Just imagine sharing this fabulous experience with your closest friends and relatives. Brings a whole new dimension to exploring Alaska!

Happy Trails!
David

Dining in Alaska - The best food and drink in downtown Anchorage!

A fast track guide to restaurants and bars that friends, work colleagues, and I happen to enjoy. Chances are with a busy holiday schedule in a place the size of Alaska – there isn’t too much time to experiment. So, hopefully we can help point you towards a pint, pizza or a memorable meal in a good restaurant. Obviously in a city like Anchorage there is a wide choice of venues and places to discover – so wherever you end up, cheers and ‘bon appetite’!

Moose’s Tooth Pub & Pizzeria
High on our list of fun places to visit. What we love is the buzz, it’s noisy, busy and staggeringly popular and operating with endless energy. Want to feel the pulse of Alaska? This is a good place to start. Evenings are best and even if you have wait for a table (no advanced reservations) the bar is fun and makes the wait worth while. Beer drinkers will be delighted with fifteen or more different Alaskan beers to choose from. Goes to show just how the microbrew industry has changed the pub scene (for the good). My top three; Pipeline Stout, Polar Pale Ale, Fairweather I.P.A. And the pizza’s are great! Combined with super friendly ambiance, MT is a must visit. Check out the menu, find the location and do your own beer research online www.moosestooth.net ! Appealing to the outdoor crowd - it seems most diners are just about to climb Alaska’s tallest peak, raft a raging, white water river or talk about their latest North Pole ski trip! Curious name? The owners are climbers and Moose’s Tooth is a 10,300 ft granite pimple on the side of Mt McKinley. Check out sister restaurant Bear Tooth Theatre Pub.(http://www.beartooththeatre.net/index2.html). You gotta love like this place – set in an old movie theatre – you take your food and watch a classic! Seen the movie before? No problem – The Grill and bar is the place to go. Usually packed, it has a great buzz and definitely where the locals go. Website tells you all you need.

Glacier Brewhouse
Just round the corner from our office – we know it well! And more importantly we reckon you might like to as well. The restaurant’s popularity with summer visitors is clearly evident with dinner reservations recommended. The brewery forms the backdrop of the restaurant and is the ultimate in steel artwork! Found on 5th Avenue in the heart of the city, The Brewhouse is easily reached on foot from most downtown hotels. Keep it mind for a good lunch if you are sightseeing or walking the coastal trail. Holidays are thirsty work, and the beer is so good they got a telephone number to equal it - 274 BREW. We recommend the food and the creative menu offers a pleasant Alaskan / West Coast focus. Menu and prices are online www.glacierbrewhouse.com. By the way the best show in town are the chefs working with flames and flair in the open kitchen. Fun, friendly, good value, relaxing atmosphere and the pleasant young staff make this a fixture on our list.

Orso Ristorante
Fine dining with a warm, intimate atmosphere. Situated next door to Glacier Brewhouse (same owner) this restaurant offers a completely different experience. It is quiet, romantic and with a subtle ambiance. The décor is Italian and the food is Italian / Mediterranean. An out of date website does it little justice (due for serious surgical attention). Their excellent wine list is one of better to be found in the city. Romantic? Yes, definitely “third date and thereafter” is how it was explained to me! Apparently two corner tables upstairs receive the majority of those epic lines like “I love you darling” and other endearing indicators on a very regular basis! The food is Italian with a Mediterranean flair that clearly manages to encompass Alaska in the nicest of ways. It’s special, memorable – and even if you don’t have a few epic love lines up your sleeve – you’ll have a darned good evening here. www.orsoalaska.com


Sacks Café & Restaurant
Sacks is well established and something of an Anchorage institution. After 24 years in the city’s downtown business / shopping district, Sacks has developed a strong reputation and distinct and enviable image. Interior style is warm, chic and cosmopolitan. Menus, are in a word – creative. Check out www.sackscafe.com a good example of how restaurant menus should look – clear and concise. Knowing the restaurant it’s interesting how the online menu accurately portrays your dining experience (straightforward text, honest, no fluffy descriptions). As they say, an innovative dinner menu with knockout appetizers, salads and entrees. Wine list is comprehensive (won Wine Spectator award of excellence) plus good selection of beers. Recipe pages I like and particularly links to their archives. With file cabinets crammed full of creativity this section could be expanded. One of the best places to dine downtown and what’s more it’s not too noisy so you can talk normally with friends. Easy to find on G street (between 3rd & 4th Ave) in the heart of the city centre.

Simon & Seaforts Saloon & Grill
By most accounts, best seafood restaurant in Anchorage. Long established (1978) and popular with locals and visitors alike. Almost everyone I know loves going to ‘Simons’ now and again. Views from the dining room (Cook Inlet) are stunning. For a real ‘Wow’ on a clear evening plan for a latish dinner to get the summer sun in the right place and watch it slowly setting over ‘The Sleeping Lady’ mountain. Yup, reservations are important, so don’t forget. To the meat and potatoes of the blog; fish is what Simon & Seaforts is best known for; Alaska King Crab, fresh Copper River salmon and halibut are the best sellers. Over a period of years I have eaten here many times and have rarely been disappointed (if only they would serve piping hot coffee). The menu reads temptingly well www.simonandseaforts.com. The bar is fun, large with a good atmosphere, magnificent views and has on average 12-15 Alaskan brewed beers on tap. Unlike the microbrew guys, Simon’s draw from a wide range of Alaskan brewers – so a decent variety is available to try. The wine list is comprehensive. I personally enjoy wines from the Pacific Northwest and the Oregon Pinot Gris goes well with Alaskan seafood dishes. It’s downtown, easy to find, easy to park – in fact close to where Captain Cook managed to find free ship parking in 1784.

Side Street Expresso
Easily our favourite coffee shop. Found on G Street between 4th + 5th Avenue. ‘Side Street’ is a real gem. Run by George and Deb, they are the friendliest people and serve a great cup of (steaming hot) coffee. So different from those large, coffee house mega-chain places, Side Street is the real thing – with local artwork on the walls, animated conversations at wooden tables and lots of locals. It’s the sort of old fashioned place that every time the door opens and closes in winter – a cloud of steam puffs out into the atmosphere! And around lunchtime if all you want is a bowl of soup and a bagel – this is the place. Website? Who needs one, when everyday George draws a cartoon that sits on the counter, in front of the old chrome coffee maker.

Humpy’s Great Alaska Alehouse
Their website tells the whole story www.humpys.com. This place is fun, very central, pleasantly noisy, young crowd and if you like burgers and beers it’s definitely for you. My favourite? Can’t resist their halibut burger and chips. Live music features quite often, check website for who’s playing when you are in town.

Snow City Café
Voted best breakfast / best brunch restaurant by the local paper three years in a row – so chances are these people are doing something right in the kitchen. With a strong, local clientele it’s a great place to drop by for a leisurely breakfast. When I can, I enjoy a weekend visit and order something from their ‘Good Morning Sunshine’ breakfast menu (available with draft Guinness!!). As they’d say in New York “Ya gotta love the crowd, rustle of newspapers, aroma of hot coffee and more creativity with eggs than most of us could imagine possible”! Sounds sheer madness, but over past winters I, along with friends seem content to queue outside in twenty degrees below zero temperatures just to get a seat. The enterprising menu also features some excellent (and recommended) vegetarian dishes – all of which can be found on their website www.snowcitycafe.com. Located in the centre of Anchorage on 4th Avenue, almost next door to the Captain Cook Hotel.